This creates a straight edge relative to the neck that allows you to see curve in the neck.

To use the string as a straightedge, you’ll “create” a straight line along the neck by holding the string down at the 1st and 12th fret.

Use this outer string as your straightedge to see the current curvature of the neck and judge if it’s back bowed (upside down U shape), upbowed (regular U shape), or flat (even along the length of the string) so that you can determine a course of action.

Rest the bottom end of the instrument on your padded workspace and put the headstock over your shoulder so that you can clearly see down the neck from nut to bridge via the lower outer string (B or E).Overall goal: “While some instruments play better when the neck is slightly back bowed, I have had the best success with the neck essentially dead flat.” The solution for both issues is to tighten the truss rod.” Also, if you start getting buzzing in the 7-12th fret range, it’s an indication that you have developed a high spot relative to the 12-15th fret area and there’s too much curve in the neck. How you know that you need to tighten your truss rod: “ If your intonation is really off in the first position/first few frets, that may mean that it is upbowed (regular U shape) and there’s too much relief/curve which is raising the height of the strings above the first fret too much. This indicates that the neck is backbowed a bit (upside down U shape) and needs to be loosened.” How you know that you need to loosen your truss rod: “One of the ways you’ll know that you need to adjust your truss rod: you’ll get buzzing in the first position/first few frets and not further up the neck. So, it’s totally normal to adjust your neck at least twice a year as a result of seasonal changes.” Likewise, when the heat and humidity of the summer occurs, your neck may move. In temperate climates, when the heat goes on towards the end of the year, the neck has a tendency to move one way or another. It’s less about temperature and more about humidity. Why you need to adjust the truss rod 1-2 times a year: “The neck moves as a function, primarily, of humidity changes. The hardest thing to learn is when to know that your neck is properly adjusted.” Relax! It’s very difficult to break a truss rod. Step Three: adjusting the truss rod : “I know from experience that a lot of you are terrified of adjusting truss rods. For regular tuning, any tuner is fine, I’m just fussy about a strobe tuner for adjusting intonation.”

Currently, I use a Peterson clip-on strobe tuner for basic tuning, but you can use whatever tuner you have. Step Two: tune up: “It’s important that the instrument be at pitch when you adjust the truss rod. They tend to come loose over time as well.

While you are at it, tighten the strap buttons.

Tighten the neck bolts to “finger tightness.” Don’t use an electric drill or screwdriver as that much force can lead to over tightening and damage the wood.

That way, if the screwdriver slips out of the top of the screw, you won’t scratch the finish or dent the wood.

Tip: whenever you are using a screwdriver on an instrument, put your fingers around the head of the screwdriver to hold it in place.

Rest the instrument face down and use your phillips screwdriver to tighten the bolts.

They come loose over time and it’s important to stability and sound that they be tight.” But it is the first thing that you should do. This is one step that everybody overlooks, including myself. Step One: tightening the neck bolts/strap buttons: “If you have a bolt-on instrument, you need to tighten the neck bolts.

Allen wrenches for the bridge (and for the truss rod if you have a headstock truss rod).īasic Setup Steps and the Order in Which to Do Them.

There are many options available including an Peterson strobe tuner app for your phone. To adjust intonation, it’s best to use a strobe tuner.

Tuner: any tuner is fine for regular tuning.Some sort of neck support to hold the neck steady and protect the instrument and surface when the instrument is face down.Soft, level, clean work surface with a towel, mat, or any other soft layer that won’t scratch the instrument’s finish.It’s not rocket science! I’m going to go over the basic tools, and the basic order in which to approach things with the goal of you being able to maintain your basses for routine maintenance.” I’ve always felt that bass players should be able to do basic maintenance on their own instruments. “I’d like to take this opportunity to share with you my approach to setting up a bass.

Peterson strobe tuner tutorial